Daytona deerest


Bigsarg

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55 minutes ago, Bigsarg said:

They finished cutting and polishing (40 hrs). Car looks like you can reach into the paint.

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:fireworks: Awesome!

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How do you get a car straight?

 

Lots of block sanding with guidecoat on high solids primer with 400-600 grit, Paint it once and wetsand again with great care and finer papert. Topcoat with colour again and clear...

Wetsand again with 1000-1500 grit and clear one more time. done......................................................................

Car is looking great!!!!

Edited by Stinger390X
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I had the Ferrari style door handles, which made the car look like it had the doors shaved. With the new Alfa door handles the car looks so different. Nice change. 

Passenger front parking lense shaved down and fitted. I still don't understand why the molds weren't corrected to where the lenses would just fit right in. Body shop took 4 hrs to fit it. I guess if the original lense wasn't missing it probably be 30 min or so to fit. But still why not just fix the mold so the problem didn't exist?

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Stinger, you got that right. Lots of sanding. His final sand was with a 6" block. I always thought you went as long of a block as you could. I guess I was mistaken. His clear did have black mix in like you said. You know your stuff sir. 

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Yes the six inch block is pretty standard as an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of sandpaper can be cut into two strips long ways for the block. A four inch block can get four strips from one sheet.

Lots of crosshatching and changing direction when wetsanding with that stuff.

Recently restored a 67 Dodge Dart and used a 17" block to get the line in the quarter panel. Car came out perfect (better than factory) Lots of guide coat and arm blood-loss labour!!! Finished product was worth it!

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I didn't have the chrome license plate light/handle before. Spyderman was able to find me one at a great price that was show quality.  It makes the rear of the Daytona complete. I always thought the car was missing that final touch

Bumpers rechromed and new rubber placed on them  also

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Edited by Bigsarg
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Ii decided to take the upstairs shop and turn it into a home dojo. I've been working on it for the last month. Added a bathroom with shower and now doing the floors. Next week two 5'x5' mirrors will be installed. 

I usually find something fun in a project, but installing laminate floors has no fun part. It's like doing tile. Each step leads to the next and it's as boring as the last. 

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Edited by Bigsarg
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Finishing up all the small items now. 

Putting the rear quarter panel red markers back in really does make this  car look like it's got more class. The shaved body look was popular at one time, but I think it should have never been done to this car  

Once again Autoro(Daytona Whisperer) came thru for me; Thxs Bra. I was having trouble finding the rear marker wiring pigtails. He hooked me up and at a decent price too. He also gave me all the measurements to put them back in the exact place. U could see where they were from inside, but it was all a fudged up fiberglass mess

Shop figured out the right hose for the engine oil filter modification. It's a truck radiator hose. 

 

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Edited by Bigsarg
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When will they put the spoke wheels on? Or did that change? Or am I mixed up? :) 

Edited by Dadrian
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Dadrian, the front end alignment is next. Once that's done then I'll have the rims and tires put on. I'm going to try 3 different sizes to get the gap as small in the front as possible. But I don't want to have different size tires front and back. I think I'll find a great compromise with the three choices I'm going to be working with. 

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I'm thinking of going a lit out of the box. I'm going with this headlight conversion. 

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/grm-09-1049

They have the halo built in and then the bulbs are a lot brighter. If you've even been in a C3 at night you know that you can't see anything. Actually pretty scary. So the lighting will be much better. The halo look thru clear plexy glass will either give it a great look or it will so ruin the overall appearance. I've never seen a Daytona with halo headlights. 

Whats ur thoughts on this conversion? 

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Headlights are very cool and should be a great improvement!.

The bulbs however are a concern. Make sure your car can handle the wattage draw as you don't want to melt the connector at the bulb. I have seen this happen!

I had a Lincoln MarkVIII and it had terrible factory lighting so I know what you mean. I ordered a set of HID for it but never installed them as it was a bad fit and would screw up the on board computer as I would have a constant fault code appearing on the dash! I ended up leaving the stock lights but driving at night with high beams. Funny....no one ever blinked at me at night to turn off my brights????

 

I put over rated bulbs in my Volvo to see if I could brighten my lighting and I actually melted my pigtails on the plugs. Had to re-wire new pigtails and go back to stock bulb. I hope you won't have the same issue? Good luck.

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Stinger, great info. I'll bring it up with the shop. I know the car has a new painless wiring harness and a more powerful alternator from stock cuz of the fuel injection. So I hope this is a good fit. I did ask about the heat cuz was worried about the plexiglass melting. They said it would bubble the paint before it melted plexy. They were not worried about that issue. Thxs

today mirrors were installed. I've seen them in many different locations than how the Vice car had them. I went for the Vice car position, on the side not top of the door. 

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With mirrors mounted the exterior is completed. The fuel oil filter is functional and looks good. The hello headlights came in today so they'll be getting them in next. Then exhaust and front end alignment. 

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The underside of the hood is even cut and polished to a mirror finish. I was going to put a vynal pic there but could not find any high definition pics of Miami Vice. So we decided to go simple and cut and polish. It will define be a great look when the engine is dressed up with all the covers and Ferrari air filter on 

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Windshield in  and 1975 trim installed. I went with the black trim. One of the Miami Vice cars had black and one had stainless. 

Holo lights are in. Direct wired to alternator.  So I will have some good illumination now. 

Door panels look better without armrest, IMO

air filter got one of the "365hp @ 1984 RPM" plaque grafted in

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2 hours ago, Mvice8489 said:

look'n GOOOOOOOOOD !!!!

Thanks Mvice, the pic doesn't show the cool factor that it had in real life. It shadowed out by the sunlight in the back and the Hello lights on looked rather wicked. I think it's going to be a great look with the plexy installed. If not I can disconnect the hellos completely. I always liked the big front parking Amber turn lenses on right before dark. It looks so cool and I wasn't sure if the hello would take away from that classic look. I think it looks more classic now

the stance is now being addressed. We're going to put 2" smaller coils up front. The new front suspension tubular A arms and bushings has it really standing tall in the front. After a long talk with the custom shop we decided to build the car around the tires its running. 225/60R 15. The rear is sitting exactly like I want it and so we will dress the front to get the stance it needs. The shop tested the leaf in the rear and said it was not sagging so no need in replacing it. So, a 2" drop and exhaust next week.

The door windows were a bitch to get adjusted. My shop had to call in a corvette exspert to get them adjusted to hit the top window rubbers; remember I removed the fiberglass surrounding the windshield and went with corvette convertible stock parts   

The trick he said is roll the window down 1/3 and adjust it there. You have all the room you need then. In case you need to know this trick. Which I wish I knew years back when I spent a day messing with the dam window. I think the trick is just write a dam check and get it done right. 

I'm thinking 3 more weeks before it's finished. Don't hold me to it. 

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I'm looking forward to seeing the finished engine bay with all the handmade goodies completed.

Please post pic when that is completed.

In regards to the springs in the front...You might want to check TRW's catalogue for aftermarket springs and heights. I did this to one of my own hotrods years ago and went form a 1600 to a 2200lb for a lift factor of about 2 1/2 inches. I know you want to go down but the TRW chart will give you that option as well. The thing you want to be careful with is bottoming out. The spring , even though it may be shorter must still carry the weight of the front end.  Watch for travel length and poundage capabilities. Your lucky with the SLA suspension you have on a vette, coils are a piece of cake to swap out.

Good luck and hope you get the correct ride height your looking for and of course check wheel clearance after. The last thing you want to do is scrape or crack the wheel opening on a turned tire. This happened to my buddy's 34 Ford coupe even after I told him not to go that low, he did it anyway, and took a chip about the size of your thumbnail out of the top of the passenger fender. Now he is begging me to fix it but it's almost impossible to blend a "Matt" black finish on this 34' I don't know if I want to attempt it as he will bitch about it after my attempt. The entire car will need to be refinished for a match!

 

Edited by Stinger390X
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Stinger. Thxs for the input. I'll bring all this up with the shop tomorrow. I'm taking the wire spoke rims down tomorrow. So it's getting closer. 

I'm wanting to see all the final pieces on the engine as well. Their finished and I'm hoping to see them on this week. 

I can understand not wanting to try and match paint for a perfectionist. But unmatched is better than a blob of touch up paint. Lol

 

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