miami Vice Daytona Replica for sale


Barrel69

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http://www.mcsclassiccars.eu/producten/daytona-21/miami-vice-daytona-replica-daytona---55Translation : exact replica of the black miami vice daytonato 1979 corvette basis (tax free)very nice and good driving car350 cui engine with 375 hpbrand new convertible hoodcar is still in miami but can be within 2 weeks in the Netherlands For more info call or email
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http://www.mcsclassiccars.eu/producten/daytona-21/miami-vice-daytona-replica-daytona---55Translation : exact replica of the black miami vice daytonato 1979 corvette basis (tax free)very nice and good driving car350 cui engine with 375 hpbrand new convertible hoodcar is still in miami but can be within 2 weeks in the Netherlands For more info call or email

Well it is far from being an exact copy, as it has many differences from the cars used in the show. And judging from a few details in this ad, it appears to be listed by this guy who calls himself Miami-Spyders and some other aliases on Ebay and some other kit car sites. Some of us have had dealings with him and he has been less than reputable. I can PM anyone with more details about the seller if they are seriously interested in this car. BUYER BEWARE
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Yeah' date=' despite that, it's one awesome lookin' Daytona. :thumbsup:[/quote']ah that one, it showed up on ebay a little while back and there still using the very photos of it from the ebay auction.about the only thing thats close to the actual daytona is the tail pipes, which are on par with what it looked like for the pilot roughly:Eingefügtes BildNothing else really granted its one of the nicer replicas but with that wheel set up and the miss mounted corvette c3 mirrors it needs work, the mirrors need to be angled inwards to look right and the stems are too long for it.plus the grills banged in and the plexyglass was warped if I remember correctly.
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Needs workIt is a nice daytona.I agree it needs some work.The tires seems to make the car look a little chucky or beefy in way.It looks a little odd in a way.The old girl surely looks good,Don't you wish we could all age so gracefully

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As I was alluding to and is from past experience the seller does not always accurately represent what you are buying. This car would need to have a full detailed inspection by a mechanic of my choice before I would consider it. You need to know the true condition of the car. The interior is not close to the show cars, nor are the wheels or nose. Nor is the rear end, the convertible top and some other stuff.Yes it was on Ebay a number of times. Think the market is getting wiser to this seller.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The good thing is, the headlights are like the ones of the MV McBurnie, the bad thing is, it looks like you have really much to do to build it back to the original condition, eh?!

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http://www.mcsclassiccars.eu/producten/daytona-21/miami-vice-daytona-replica-daytona---55Translation : exact replica of the black miami vice daytonato 1979 corvette basis (tax free)very nice and good driving car350 cui engine with 375 hpbrand new convertible hoodcar is still in miami but can be within 2 weeks in the Netherlands For more info call or email

I'm confused...The website is Euopean and you say the car is in Miami?Some of you guys say the dealer is questionable?Where can this car be viewed? In Miami or has it been moved to the Netherlands?
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I'm confused... The website is Euopean and you say the car is in Miami? Some of you guys say the dealer is questionable? Where can this car be viewed? In Miami or has it been moved to the Netherlands?

the guys in miami but I think he posted ads for it all over the place, that particular place being one of them.
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the guys in miami but I think he posted ads for it all over the place' date=' that particular place being one of them.[/quote']The Seller I am referring to is actually in Tampa, formerly in Miami. He uses multiple names when selling in Ebay. Whenever he runs up negative feedback he gets a new Ebay ID. Buyer BEWARE.
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Still wouldn't mind eyballing the vehicle in person. I am in FL right now for a few days.Anyone have contact info on this guy for real?

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Still wouldn't mind eyballing the vehicle in person. I am in FL right now for a few days.Anyone have contact info on this guy for real?

Sent you a PM last night .
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stinger this is the one I found with the fiero seats awhile back and I believe its in florida as well:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Replica-Kit-Makes-Ferrari-Spyder-1974-Ferrari-Daytona-Spyder-365-GTB4-Replica-/270941549754?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f155ff4baif there was one I'd track down it would be this one as it seemed to be in pretty good nick despite the interior needing work (all of them seem to need work in that department from the getgo anyways) and needing a new set of tires and rims mixed in with the rowley grill and new mirrors.other than that its a damn good looking car and its based on a 74 vette, probably a convertibile and the last of there breed so it was probably built right the first time and just forgotten before its recomissioning according to the ad.

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stinger this is the one I found with the fiero seats awhile back and I believe its in florida as well:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Replica-Kit-Makes-Ferrari-Spyder-1974-Ferrari-Daytona-Spyder-365-GTB4-Replica-/270941549754?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f155ff4baif there was one I'd track down it would be this one as it seemed to be in pretty good nick despite the interior needing work (all of them seem to need work in that department from the getgo anyways) and needing a new set of tires and rims mixed in with the rowley grill and new mirrors.other than that its a damn good looking car and its based on a 74 vette' date=' probably a convertibile and the last of there breed so it was probably built right the first time and just forgotten before its recomissioning according to the ad.[/quote']Yeah that one is not too bad from what it appears in the pics. Would need the mechanicals closely inspected as always in cars of that vintage.
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Yeah that one is not too bad from what it appears in the pics. Would need the mechanicals closely inspected as always in cars of that vintage.

actually Sonny from what I've read since then it seems like with the ladder chasis's its just the wet weather and winter of upnorth that can lead to the degrading of the frame like that as it was reported on an italian car' date=' a fiat 124 spyder. just like my dad had in italy had the same failure that 78 vette did from a speed bump on the smith and wesson forums and it was up here in MA no less, with the same EXACT damn MO.Although that was only about 5 years after it was made which makes sense because of how thin the steel is on italian cars of that time period. so its probably just a matter of going for a car that was never consistantly exposed to the salt and wet weather of a winter uphere to prevent that kind of degration and seeing as that car is in Miami and Car 4 which had lived all of its life in a warm climate never showed any signs of that degradation its probably by all intensive purposes just something that should be looked for if the car is in a wet climate and has lived there in all of its life and been driven in the winter as noted by the owner.so I'd say the only thing one would have to do is inspect the frame for any accident damage, other than that it should be good to go as its been a florida car all its life from the sound of it and the engine looks fresh and the suspension from the shot shown looks good.and ask him if he's done any drag racing with it, does he drive it atleast 3 times a month on the road like a regular car, what does he shift at RPM wise, how does he drive it? those kind of questions.as the Vette 350 CI vette should not be shifted at any higher than about 3000, the big block 427's and 454's should not be shifted at any more than 4000 RPM and since the RPM gauges had rpm redlines that werent rigged up to reflect the true RPM by gm in a stupid move as they were under waranty when they were new and shifted too high so I'd say avoid any that were drag raced as most people who drag race typically shift at the rpm redline. Meaning they inadevertantly damaged the engine every time they drag raced it unless they knew about that ruleor shifted it manually like don did as he shifted by the rev gauge at some point in the shows run and caused the engine to probably break a rod hence why it looked like the engine in car 4 had been repaired along with given some performance parts to give it some extra base HP for dragging around the camera rig. note the max RPM:[img']http://www.miamiviceonline.com/photoplog/images/61/large/1_MV-Interior_etc_028.JPGhence why there was so many blown 427's and 454's, plus you never want to push an engine until the temp gauge atleast reaches a 190 degrees, that's the magic number and that goes for italian cars too.and that 3 grand for small and 4 grand for big blocks thing probably goes for all muscle cars too, unless they were rigged up with race engines that run on a 100 octane like say something like the 427 medium riser used in the GT40 or the 327 race engine used in the C2 grand sport.
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actually Sonny from what I've read since then it seems like with the ladder chasis's its just the wet weather and winter of upnorth that can lead to the degrading of the frame like that as it was reported on an italian car. a fiat 124 spyder. just like my dad had in italy had the same failure that 78 did from a speed bump just like it on the smith and wesson forums and it was up here in MA no less' date=' the same damn MO.Although that was only about 5 years after it was made which makes sense because of how thin the steel is on italian cars of that time period. so its probably just a matter of going for a car that was never consistantly exposed to the salt and wet weather of a winter uphere to prevent that kind of degration and seeing as that car is in Miami and Car 4 which had lived all of its life in a warm climate never showed any signs of that problem is probably by all intensive purposes just something that should be looked for if the car is in a wet climate and has lived there in all of its life.so I'd say the only thing one would have to do is inspect the frame for any accident damage, other than that it should be good to go as its been a florida car all its life from the sound of it.[/quote']Wasn't really referring to corrosion or accident damage, although even hot humid Florida weather is worse than California dryer air where my car spent most of its life. What I was referring to are things I already experienced such as: failing rear differential; suspension issues such as shocks, springs, gaskets, etc; brake issues such as old style rotors and calipers that are expensive to remove and replace, and failed master cylinders; poor cooling which could be a bad radiator or clogged with sludge as mine was; bent wheels as I had 2; poor engine compression or heavy oil burning which could result in costly rework--mine is ok; transmission slippage or other costly issues; broken motor and trans mounts; and the list goes on and on.My point being that older cars (and this one is older than mine by some years) are more prone to failure and depends on whether the car was well-maintained or not. Mine was kept in a garage for years and not maintained, and, like some horses, it had been driven hard and put away wet.
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Wasn't really referring to corrosion or accident damage' date=' although even hot humid Florida weather is worse than California dryer air where my car spent most of its life. What I was referring to are things I already experienced such as: failing rear differential; suspension issues such as shocks, springs, gaskets, etc; brake issues such as old style rotors and calipers that are expensive to remove and replace, and failed master cylinders; poor cooling which could be a bad radiator or clogged with sludge as mine was; bent wheels as I had 2; poor engine compression or heavy oil burning which could result in costly rework--mine is ok; transmission slippage or other costly issues; broken motor and trans mounts; and the list goes on and on.My point being that older cars (and this one is older than mine by some years) are more prone to failure and depends on whether the car was well-maintained or not. Mine was kept in a garage for years and not maintained, and, like some horses, it had been driven hard and put away wet.[/quote']indeed I had forgotten how long the list was for yours, the major thing that got me was that 78's ladder frame failure from the speed bump and that seriously perturbed me. it was just kind of reassuring to hear that it had happened to other cars as well as it helped me pin down the cause and I wanted to put that here to let people know about it and atleast when the majority of that work is done the car usually ends up reliabile, the key thing is to really just get as much work done while the cars in to begin with, not to spread it out otherwise it really just burns you out. Basically whenever its in have it gone over by a good trustworthy mechanic from bow to stern and have it go in once every year for work and I believe the bearings in the rear have to be regreased about every 30 K although I'd probably do it about once every 1 1/2 years realistically along with switching over to stainelss steel brake roaters and having that waterless engine coolant put in that they had on jay lenos garage a couple of weeks agohttp://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/car-care/waterless-engine-coolant/index.shtmlalways seemed kinda stupid to me to have a solution in there thats about, what 50 or 60% water, I mean you dont use water based lubricant in a gun so why should you be using something like that in a big metal engine?along with an acidless battery as the battery is right behind the driver in a vette.after all that's how my dad's kept his olds in working conditon for 12 years, whenever a problem pops up he has it fixed immedatetly before it can spread and it currently has about a 130K on it and its been his daily driver for years.
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http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/car-care/waterless-engine-coolant/index.shtmlalways seemed kinda stupid to me to have a solution in there thats about, what 50 or 60% water, I mean you dont use water based lubricant in a gun so why should you be using something like that in a big metal engine?along with an acidless battery as the battery is right behind the driver in a vette.after all that's how my dad's kept his olds in working conditon for 12 years, whenever a problem pops up he has it fixed immedatetly before it can spread and it currently has about a 130K on it and its been his daily driver for years.

Was really getting at that the more defects you can identify up front the more you can try to leverage the price down with the Seller. Of course it is just trying depending on the determination of the Seller and how many interested Buyers there are. BTW, that car on Ebay just went for $21,500 at the Buy it Now price. Hmm, I'm not familiar with that frame failure you are referring to. Waterless coolant? That is worth looking into depending on price. Interesting though that my mechanic told me last year that during the summer months that I should increase the ratio of water to coolant by about 70/30 or so, as water will cool the engine down better than antifreeze. And I was running hot even with the fan direction flow fixed. Have to check into the cost/benefit of a new radiator and cooling system vs this waterless system. And this summer it is time to upgrade my carb to a more efficient one to pick up a little more kick. Yes my battery is directly behind the driver's seat and not a great place to be if I should ever have an accident or the thing would explode. May upgrade the battery for sure this summer.
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Was really getting at that the more defects you can identify up front the more you can try to leverage the price down with the Seller. Of course it is just trying depending on the determination of the Seller and how many interested Buyers there are. BTW' date=' that car on Ebay just went for $21,500 at the Buy it Now price. Hmm, I'm not familiar with that frame failure you are referring to. Waterless coolant? That is worth looking into depending on price. Interesting though that my mechanic told me last year that during the summer months that I should increase the ratio of water to coolant by about 70/30 or so, as water will cool the engine down better than antifreeze. And I was running hot even with the fan direction flow fixed. Have to check into the cost/benefit of a new radiator and cooling system vs this waterless system. And this summer it is time to upgrade my carb to a more efficient one to pick up a little more kick. Yes my battery is directly behind the driver's seat and not a great place to be if I should ever have an accident or the thing would explode. May upgrade the battery for sure this summer.[/quote']this one, the one I sent you and the others a PM abouthttp://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-general/2958741-my-78-might-be-totalled-pics-6.htmlwhere after 30 years a weld that wasnt that well done by the factory infront of the engine mount on the left side (but also can happen on the right rear according to one of the vette guys who posted there.) came undone and tore the front wheel off of the frame when it went over a speed bump and I read on the smith and wesson forums that this also happened to a fiat 124 spyder here in MA back in the late 70's because of basic deterioration and thankfully unlike the fiat it can be rewelded and fixed pretty easily if its got it.and it was just the up and down motion of the speed bump that undid the shotty weld, not basic driving and some cars are a 100% fine and its only been about 3 cars that have had that shotty weld a 68 being restored by camera daytona that he's had since 73', that 78 and the other vette that was being restored by the guy who posted the photos of that shotty weld that his also had with the engine out.other than that those are the only ones that I know of and hear of.and the vettes got a ladder frame like most cars of that era so you pretty much have to check all old cars with that ladder frame to make sure they dont have something like that, just a hazzard of classic car motoring I guess.interesting though that someone bought it for the buy it now price, guess I wasnt the only one who thought it was a nice car.and this is the acidless battery thing, one of the first things I marked off on the to do list with the vette:http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/car-parts/agm-spiral-cell-car-batteries/index.shtmland actually it should be possibile to move it to the trunk or somewhere else which I've seen on this daytona replica and one or two othershttp://corvette.canney.net/webvettes/customized/c0058/index.htmlplus this wheel spinner tool thinghttp://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/tools/knockoff-spinner-tools/index.shtmlhell look at the mar 28th thing, a video on soft top theft deterent systems plus they did a bit on coker tires recently too, the one place that did have tires in the same size as the camera car but I believe it seemed like they may not have been rated for really high speed driving.
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Actually just thinking about that maybe all your car needs is really maybe a tune up like my fathers little 67' fiat 124 spyder used to

he always used to say that after his italian mechanic got done with it in italy that it ran like a fine watch and a banshee and the damn thing was only like a 1.4 liter 4 I think, not the kind of car that you would think is a kamakazi machine. so maybe you should have someone go over the spark plugs, ignition and everything else connected to the ignition systems to make sure the timing is good plus have the carb cleaned out and rebuilt before changing anythinghell maybe even change it over to a modern ignition system, after all thats one of the key components of the engine and its probably still running the stock system and has never been seriously checked out in probably 30 odd yearsjust a word of warning though, make sure you dont try and bump up the power from the battery, basically keep the volt level within stock limits, like say with a 12 volt system use a 12 volt batter as plenty of cars have been burned down by people putting in an overpowered battery that the system and its wires were never designed to take and thus it overheats and causes a fire.and also with the horsepower thing well they flat out lied to everyone back in the 50's till 72 as they were allowed to say whatever horsepower figure they wanted till the law stated in 72 that it had to show the as installed horespower on the sheet instead of the exagerated numbers they used back thenbasically a small block 350 CI didnt produce 370 horsepower, it was really in the 200's, about 220 - 250 based on its set up, meaning you didnt get one of the underpowered ones, you got what was the equavalent of the ones in the 60's that runs on 89 pump gas without a lead additive like the people who have the pre 72 models have to deal with.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=O46E0gCF5os

although considering the cars age the lead additive cant hurt I would imagine.and the big blocks made about 330 - 350 and the only serious horsepower loss was caused by the catalitic converter in 1975plus the gas crysis that hit that year or a year latter hence why the best of the big blocks, the 454 which had so much torque that it blew the doors off of the 1993 ZR1 at a lower RPM and thus was MUCH faster in the acceleration department was finally dropped in 1975and that was the ONE car Zora Arkus-Duntov, the father of the corvette, the man who made the corvette what it was kept for himself when he left GM in 1975, a blue 1975 Corvette convertibile packing that 454 big block and from what I understand he may have kept it till his death about 15 years ago.
he basically kept what was the last of the big blocks and the last of the convertibles of that era for himself and I gotta admit part of me would want to go for a 454 just because of that.and even then the corvette regained its 30% less horsepower with the 350 by making modifications to the outside systems like the exhaust and was pretty much back up to its regular level by the time the 78's came around.and FYI this horspeower exageration was caused by gm themselves back in the 50's as a marketing move when they said that the vette back when it had like maybe a 190 CI V8 was producing 190 hp which frankly was pure horseshit and everyone else coppied themand this is why they say always go with the torque as the torque figure is about the closest to the truth with this one:

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncJVyu-JQhE

and this is also why I would probably stick with the stock motor if I could after learning this, plus if you get a bumped up modern 350 engine that produces double the HP you gotta change over the suspension from a 10 to a 7 pin rear suspension and put on all of that big block stuff just so it can handle the 100 plus hp over the big blocks it would have and then some to handle the extra 100 HP over what the big block was really rated for.and then you suck up gas like a mad men with it, I'd rather just have the stock motor with good power delivery via a good carb than go to all of that trouble plus well you dont have any electronical aids to help youit would basically be like handing a 7 pound desert eagle .50 to a 90 pound woman in my case.
it aint going to end wellhowever if you do want to seriously bump up the stock system just from the carbs there was one system that was a hell of a horsepower kicker without bringing it to that point and that was the tri power system used on the vette and it was refered to on the mopars as the six pack
3 carbs, the middle one is the one that does the most work till a certain power level is reached where the others kicked in
and I think the middle is a two and the others are two barrels the other thing that could be done is to go with a 4 barrel as it works in roughly in the same manner in about the same fashion although reading the corvette book it seems that what my dad said about the hollys is true, they are tempermental and could be potentally unreliable if the car isnt used that often and its allowed to sit or if theres a change in the temp the choke might need to be fiddled withhence why they went with the rochester carbs for the vette for the most part, plus the quadrajet actually adjusts its choke to the temperature and if I was to choose one to go with it would be this provided the power delivery is solid and smooth, although I'd probably go for a 4 barrel, not a 2.
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