The Ferrari Daytonas of Miami Vice

[Brother in Arms]

Excellent article! i find the article very good

[Youngman]

bumper availableYou can get a bumper from Auturo in Miami his email is miamispyders@aol.com you can tell him I sent you.Bob

I think this is a reflector as mine and those for sale are in the folowing pics. I think they are removable if you take off the outer main lens. The screen cap in No Exit looks to be missing the horse but not 100% sure. [ATTACH=CONFIG]6300[/ATTACH]QUOTE]Any idea where I can obtain a set of those turn signals?I also need a left front bumper..........

[Kavinsky]

I agree on the lenses' date=' the car was intended to be a Mardikian, not a Ferrari clone. The dash is a fiberglass fabrication, but since McBurnie had not made a dash-or a complete car for that matter-at the time Car 4 was redone, I think Cichetti faricated the dash around the C3 78-82 instruments. Rowley missed the lawsuit for a couple of reasons. 1-No matter how much money you have a lawfirm can bleed your dry, and Ferrari had gone through extended litigation with McBurnie and Roberts. 2-Rowley cars looked the most like real Ferraris, but Rowley saw the handwritting on the wall and included instuctions to buyers to not change the markings on the car from the RWOLEY GTC logos provided.As to the color, my car is light camel, but Camera Daytona and I took pictures of the car when we were at Carl Roberts shop a couple of years ago and if I didn't know better I would swear the car had a pink tint to it. All the pictures had the interior looking like fresh ground beef-okay not quite that bad, but pink![/quote']so you had your car and the vice car side by side then? that must have been pretty cool.still though it might be a good starting point with the dash then and would explain why the corner of the passenger side looks like a stock 78 dash except pulled out and then angled towards the insturment cluster.

I think this is a reflector as mine and those for sale are in the folowing pics. I think they are removable if you take off the outer main lens. The screen cap in No Exit looks to be missing the horse but not 100% sure. [ATTACH=CONFIG]6300[/ATTACH]QUOTE]Any idea where I can obtain a set of those turn signals?I also need a left front bumper..........

what you found one? congrats man if you did.

My coolant was boiling at that temp (think it is 212F ?) and I could hear it when I shut the car off. The Vette shop with experienced mechanics surprisingly didn't seem all that concerned about it when I told them but that temp is way too high for an aging motor' date=' imo. Am definitely interested in opinions here by you' date=' Jurassic and Camera especially about the color of Car 4 during the show run. To me, Car 4 does look significantly lighter in its present state vs the screen shots I see from various episodes back in the day. The screen shots look to be more of a medium brown, perhaps the saddle color or camel mentioned by JN. But definitely more of a medium than a light color. Wondering whether you all think my interior is closer to the screen shots or is darker. Not getting you on this. Makes sense that the reflector may be plain as I don't recall other Ferrari markings except the chrome script Ferrari on the trunk lid. Maybe that was added by the production crew as well and I don't recall any other Ferrari markings.[/quote'']not quite sure if I got the boiling point correct as I've heard that on some of the modern exotics it can go up to 220 - 250 under load and apparently its designed to handle that kind of temperaturemind you that was some insane car on Jay Lenos garage not an older vette, when fully warmed up most cars sit at 190 degrees and the max is 230 in the red but seems to stop at 220 with the red line with some of themand I have heard leno say that when the car sits in the heat like in a trafic jam some cars do gradually overheat till you get some air into them, mind you thats probably with a car with a weak cooling system and he's in california and the smog cant be good for an engine down there, any part of it. honestly with the interior thought I think it looks close enough, main thing is though is I would get the interior windshield trim redone to match the rest of your interior and then check it vs in the show.as thats where most of the close ups were done and then check that in the light vs the show, plus well you got the momo veloce, the dash is all black, it would look like the vice car from the outside for the most part in S1.when it comes to the vice dash I kinda got it while looking at the 78 dash and the vice car there at about the same angle as the dash, basically it kinda looks like someone started with the top half of a ferrari 308 dash and put it on the 78 dash and then integrated it into the rest of the stock dash and then went from therethink if someone was to take the round circular area of your dash where the insturments are and put it on the 78 dash and then brought the rest of the dash out and up to line up with it, plus cutting the bottom half of it off and then put the ferrari air vents on itsorry if its a little vague sounding but I've been looking at the ferrari interiors to see just how the gated shifter is put on it and well the 308 dash kinda looks like the dash of the daytona from the show in a couple of ways and I kinda just get that kind of feeling thats how it might have been put together as the 308 was a smash hit from the getgo with people back in 1977 and markadian being a grey importer would have definintely gotten his hands on a few and that might have influenced the replicas dash design from the getgo.

Makes sense to me. Hmm I can't visualize light camel but how does it compare to the outside pics I took of my seats? A pink tinge? How pastel-like. Sounds like the interior had to at least be redyed then after the show run' date=' if not recovered.[/quote']I dont know looking at the photo camera posted in the photo gallery of the insturment cluster I kinda think it wasnt restored as theres a little leather warping around the tach and speedo along with a few marks on the plexyglass over the gauges from someone putting there sunglassses on it (my dad does the same thing on his car and it left the same kinda marks right inbetween those gauges as well)plus the sort of wrinkling of the windshield inner trim there right where the bottom screw ishttp://www.miamiviceonline.com/photoplog/images/61/1_MV-Interior_etc_027-reduced.JPGand like I said the other wear marks I noticed from the photos jurrasic has, I mean the vice car while the thing was beat up and thrown around in the show didnt really seem like the interior outside of the door panels got much of a beating honestly

[Sonny-Burnett]

what you found one? congrats man if you did.

A very over-priced set at $1800.

not quite sure if I got the boiling point correct as I've heard that on some of the modern exotics it can go up to 220 - 250 under load and apparently its designed to handle that kind of temperature

I heard the coolant boiling in the late summer of 2010 when the temp was hitting north of 220 or even 230 and it was very unnerving to say the least' date=' even though the Vette mechanics didn't seem overly concerned. Since the secondary electric fan was reversed so that it pulls air through the radiator the temp doesn't get to those extremes any longer. But my AC repair made in 2010 now seems to have failed and I think the use of the compressor also contributed to overheating.

and I have heard leno say that when the car sits in the heat like in a trafic jam some cars do gradually overheat till you get some air into them' date=' mind you thats probably with a car with a weak cooling system and he's in california and the smog cant be good for an engine down there, any part of it. [/quote']Yeah my temp was high when I was sitting in traffic downtown and it was 90F outside with little airflow moving through the radiator.

honestly with the interior thought I think it looks close enough, main thing is though is I would get the interior windshield trim redone to match the rest of your interior and then check it vs in the show.as thats where most of the close ups were done and then check that in the light vs the show, plus well you got the momo veloce, the dash is all black, it would look like the vice car from the outside for the most part in S1.

The problem is that my entire dash is black so it wouldn't make sense to paint the windshield trim tan until the dash is swapped out as I think the black windshield trim now looks best with the black dash.

when it comes to the vice dash I kinda got it while looking at the 78 dash and the vice car there at about the same angle as the dash, basically it kinda looks like someone started with the top half of a ferrari 308 dash and put it on the 78 dash and then integrated it into the rest of the stock dash and then went from there

I looked at the dash closeup of Car4 and it certainly seems pretty customized around the tach and speedo and not sure if the angle of he dash forward face has been adjusted vs a standard Vette dash from 78-82.

think if someone was to take the round circular area of your dash where the insturments are and put it on the 78 dash and then brought the rest of the dash out and up to line up with it, plus cutting the bottom half of it off and then put the ferrari air vents on it

Not getting you here but if the Car4 dash in the round area where the tach and speedo are were replaced with my guage cluster you would still have the problem of the Vette guages in the center console.

I dont know looking at the photo camera posted in the photo gallery of the insturment cluster I kinda think it wasnt restored as theres a little leather warping around the tach and speedo along with a few marks on the plexyglass over the gauges from someone putting there sunglassses on it (my dad does the same thing on his car and it left the same kinda marks right inbetween those gauges as well)plus the sort of wrinkling of the windshield inner trim there right where the bottom screw is

Thought JN said the leather was replaced or recovered on Car4 after the show at some point?I know he has done a lot of research on Car4 plus the input from CameraDaytona.

[Sonny-Burnett]

You can get a bumper from Auturo in Miami his email is miamispyders@aol.com you can tell him I sent you.Bob

Sorry Youngman I must disagree, especially if you read some of the exchanges from this Alfa Hotel when he recently joined and then his posts and himself were yanked from the site. Arturo (Cornejo) of Tampa sells replicars under the name Miami Spyders (Ebay and Kitcars) with inflated markups after just making some cosmetic improvements, won't allow independent inspections to hide defects in the cars, uses disreputable selling tactics (makes up international buyer interest, uses bogus Ebay IDs to inflate the bidding and hides their IDs through private listings), and he sells parts using Bait and Switch tactics where you do not always get what you paid for (personal experience here in both scenarios). I also know of other members on this site who either experienced or are aware of his dishonest tactics and substandard cars.

[Sonny-Burnett]

TiresAs we now know, the tires on Car 4 today and apparently from the Show's run are Pirelli P6 in the size 235/60 VR15 but unfortunately these are not made in this size anymore. I did have a tire specialist finally look at my car today and he concluded that my front and rear rims are the same size, even though I have huge P255/60 SR15s on the rear and smaller 215/60 R15s on the front.The fronts can accommodate the larger 235/60 R15s and apparently the only difference I will see will be about a 1/4 inch increase in radial size and the width will now push the treads out nearly flush with the rims. But is OK.The rears can downsize to the 235s also with about the same radial loss of 1/4 inch and a slight reduction in tread width to again be more flush with the rims whereas the 255s definitely protrude out beyond the rims now. Here is how the wheels look today and the tire size differences are noticeable in the wheel wells. Also the larger rears pitch the nose forward slightly. [ATTACH=CONFIG]6343[/ATTACH]The tire shop did find the Pirelli P600B in a 235/60ZR-15 which is a higher speed rating than the older VR. But the tread is a little unique looking IMO. http://delowheels.com/tireDisplay.php?brand=Pirelli&model=P600Anyone have a shot of Car4's tread?

[Kavinsky]

A very over-priced set at $1800.

I heard the coolant boiling in the late summer of 2010 when the temp was hitting north of 220 or even 230 and it was very unnerving to say the least' date=' even though the Vette mechanics didn't seem overly concerned. Since the secondary electric fan was reversed so that it pulls air through the radiator the temp doesn't get to those extremes any longer. But my AC repair made in 2010 now seems to have failed and I think the use of the compressor also contributed to overheating. Yeah my temp was high when I was sitting in traffic downtown and it was 90F outside with little airflow moving through the radiator. The problem is that my entire dash is black so it wouldn't make sense to paint the windshield trim tan until the dash is swapped out as I think the black windshield trim now looks best with the black dash. I looked at the dash closeup of Car4 and it certainly seems pretty customized around the tach and speedo and not sure if the angle of he dash forward face has been adjusted vs a standard Vette dash from 78-82. Not getting you here but if the Car4 dash in the round area where the tach and speedo are were replaced with my guage cluster you would still have the problem of the Vette guages in the center console. Thought JN said the leather was replaced or recovered on Car4 after the show at some point?I know he has done a lot of research on Car4 plus the input from CameraDaytona.[/quote']I ment that by stinger looking for said parts it would seem that his search is over and he's got his own replica nowand yeah it sounds like your cooling system might be due for a redo' date=' could ask Jurrasic about the specifics as he mentioned he had the radiator and everything redone, usually though its the radiator itself thats full of gunk and the hoses need to be replaced because of it along with boiling out the radiator if I'm remembering that correctly, might be worth it to have your new mechanic just look the thing over from top to bottom and tell him to look at the hoses and the wiring for everythingcould be as simple as someone miswiring the fans or the AC for the wrong ampage or it could be that the alternator isnt putting out enough power to properly power the cooling fans as isthats usually a quick and easy mod for older cars to switch over from a generator to an alternator although I'm not too good when it comes to understanding how electricty works unlike my old man and I'm not sure if I just got that backwards.also make sure they use right voltage wiring if thats the case that the car was originally rigged up for as higher does not equal better unless the entire car is redone that way and rigged up with the proper fuses to take that powerand well with the vice car its sort of a thin line of saddle leather going across it with the black dash pad, but not much else atleast on the top halfit could be possibile to have someone stich some sort of leather strip across the dash and maybe over the lower half of the dash itself to replicate the look of car 4's dash and just simply have the gauges redone to match that of car 4's:hell could possibily just take the 1978 insturments and have them mounted in the mcburnie dash although that might take abit of work to do and some cutting of a now extinct mold.other thing would be just to have the insturment dials redone to match car 4's white on black, dont quite know why theres a little black patch on the RPM thing there on the gauges though.and the reason why I kinda think its key to have the inner windshield trim saddle instead of black is because it appears to drastically lighten the interior head on from the outside and make the top seem bigger, the ones with black trim just seem to look off to me and like there missing something.with the angle of the dash though it seems like the basic framework of the lower tan half from the center console onwards is the same as a stock vette as the glove box door would have to be modified to match that of the angle of the dash, and the angle seems to be about stock with it:says its light beige by the way and its a 79 car, brown on tan so to speak accoring to the ad.along with the right side corner looking about the same as it does in the vette, except for if someone added like a line or a cut out of maybe the original lower half of another dash to it to reduce the sharpness of the corner and then brought it out to match the custom dash top, or hell just filled it in a touch to ease out the cornerand then put the dash pad of the ferrari 308 on it, which is where I think they got the idea for having 3 vents instead of the ferrari daytonas 4 which is also distinctly more futher forward and separated from the dashDaytona:http://www.miamiviceonline.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6347&stc=1&d=1340505168308/288 GTOhttp://www.miamiviceonline.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6344&stc=1&d=1340505163http://www.miamiviceonline.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6345&stc=1&d=1340505164he did say it was restored but they dont know when or by whoom I believe and I just get the feeling looking over the photos and the marks I've noticed on the dash, seats, inner windshield trim and the like it just doesnt seem like its been redone as theres wearmarks on all of them and some stretching of some sort on the dash on the right side and the inner windshield trimand well even in the hot califonia sun lenos Countach looks alright and he's put 70K miles on it since new when he bought it in 86'http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fu2mqyo7Sowwww.jaylenosgarage.com/video/1986-lamborghini-countach/849581and he says in the video that he needs to have the leather redone as its streched abit but really it kept its shape pretty well.with that tire website though the thing that worries me is the copywrite date, 2008 was 4 years ago after all, they might not even have it and I'm not sure about the tread although I have come across a rowley replica with eagle GT radial tires, not sure of the size and this is its tread:http://www.miamiviceonline.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6346&stc=1&d=1340505167http://www.photos-automobiles.com/shootings/ferrari_daytonaspyder/index.htmcar looks about balanced with a faint sort of angle to it, although I gotta admit since seeing that one with the bigger dalton rims on it I'm really smitten with the bigger rims:http://corvette.canney.net/webvettes/customized/c0050/index.htmltire type is goodyear eagle RS-A, cant tell what the proper tire size of both are as the numbering is too small for even me to make outthird is this one with GF Goodrich G-Force tireshttp://www.finecars.cc/en/detail/car/132405/index.html?no_cache=1&ret=20&request[filter'][offset]=0&request[filter][rowcount]=6and the cars looking good by the way.

[CameraDaytona]

Sorry Guys - I have been doing some travel and have not been following the thread. As I understand it, the seats in my car were recovered and the door panels changed by Carl Roberts after he got the car back from Universal Studios. (After having been used as a prop for the series, I suspect the seats and door panels were worn.) I do not believe the rest of the interior was touched. I think the tonneau cover is original as well as the dash. According to what JN learned from Carl Roberts, he (Carl) planned to use my car as the "show car" for his business manufacturing Daytonas - so he wanted it looking good. (He was then convinced to sell the car by the first owner who had contracted with Carl to build him a Daytona - which Carl was having trouble completing.) I have receipts of everything done to the car by the first and second owners of the car, and I have done nothing to the interior. So, I believe interior of the car is as it left Carl. And, yes it does seen a little lighter than the traditional Corvette "saddle" or "camel" - but not as light as some of Kavinsky's pictures of other cars. The pictures of my car that I and JN have posted are pretty accurate as to color. You will note that the seats and door panels match the dash pretty well. If you look at the pictures of the tonneau cover, you can see that the front and back (which should have not seen much sun) are the same color. I assume that the rest of the items covered (dash, window trim, etc) were all covered with the same material.I believe the dash was constructed using the original Corvette panels as a starting point. The original speedometer and tach fit in the same position as on a Corvette. (The Mardikian emblems were added to the instrument faces.)As far as temperatures go, the boiling point of the antifreeze depends on the pressure in the system. Most of the radiator caps are rated at 15 psi which raises the boiling point. The newer Corvettes routinely run the temps up to about 220 degrees before turning on the fans.

[Kavinsky]

what about the older vettes though like your 68' that your restoring Camera? maybe its a case of someone miss setting up the temp level that the fans come on on Sonny Burnetts car then?

[CameraDaytona]

what about the older vettes though like your 68' that your restoring Camera? maybe its a case of someone miss setting up the temp level that the fans come on on Sonny Burnetts car then?

I'm not familiar with how Sonny's car works, but the fans are probably set to come on at some temperature. I think one of his fans was running backwards. which would not be too efficient.

[Kavinsky]

I'm not familiar with how Sonny's car works' date=' but the fans are probably set to come on at some temperature. I think one of his fans was running backwards. which would not be too efficient.[/quote']Well I ment like if there was a specific temperature that was the known temp that the fans come on at on the 68 - 82's, I mean you did say that with the newer ones its 220, its just that I thought maybe you knew that off the top of your head as well.and yeah the fan was put in backwards but he did have that rectified when he took it to the mechanic who takes care of his other car a little while ago instead of the guys who shift and turn around vettes for a living, meaning they probably try and throw the thing together without double checking there work actually maybe someone put the wrong radiator cap on it or something along the lines of that.actually Sonny thats the reason why I said it might be a good idea to have a trustworthy experenced pro check over the electrics and see if anything was misswired, worn or if the alternator or the battery isnt putting out enough power to power everything.

[CameraDaytona]

Well I ment like if there was a specific temperature that was the known temp that the fans come on at on the 68 - 82's' date=' I mean you did say that with the newer ones its 220, its just that I thought maybe you knew that off the top of your head as well.[/quote']The C-3 Corvettes (68 to 82) did not have electric fans. They use thermostatic clutch fans run off the crankshaft. The higher the temperature, the more the fan clutch "grabs" and the faster the fan runs. The radiator shroud "encloses" the fan and forces the air to come through the radiator. The issue, of course, is that at idle the engine is running at low rpm and the fans runs slower even if the fan clutch is totally engaged. That's why the old big blocks would overheat if they sat in traffic for very long. The electric fans were a good solution because they came on at a constant speed whenever they were needed. And, unlike the clutch fans, they did not take power from the engine when not needed. When our replica Daytonas were built, I think most builders used the electric fans, which was a good idea.The pressure held by the radiator cap sets the maximum temperature the antifreeze could reach. I have read that each psi increases the antifreeze boiling point by about 3 degrees F. That would mean that a 15 psi cap would hold antifreeze up to about 250 degrees. If the temperature increase above the 250 degrees, it would boil and be released by the cap, so would stay around 250 degrees, but as it boils away, the engine will not have enough cooling and will ultimately freeze up. Since the antifreeze as it leaves the cylinder area will be hotter than after it goes through the radiator, as a practical matter, you need to keep the temperature (as measured by the gage) lower than the 250 degree max - and I think the designers like to keep it less than 220 degrees.

[Kavinsky]

The C-3 Corvettes (68 to 82) did not have electric fans. They use thermostatic clutch fans run off the crankshaft. The higher the temperature' date=' the more the fan clutch "grabs" and the faster the fan runs. The radiator shroud "encloses" the fan and forces the air to come through the radiator. The issue, of course, is that at idle the engine is running at low rpm and the fans runs slower even if the fan clutch is totally engaged. That's why the old big blocks would overheat if they sat in traffic for very long. The electric fans were a good solution because they came on at a constant speed whenever they were needed. And, unlike the clutch fans, they did not take power from the engine when not needed. When our replica Daytonas were built, I think most builders used the electric fans, which was a good idea.The pressure held by the radiator cap sets the maximum temperature the antifreeze could reach. I have read that each psi increases the antifreeze boiling point by about 3 degrees F. That would mean that a 15 psi cap would hold antifreeze up to about 250 degrees. If the temperature increase above the 250 degrees, it would boil and be released by the cap, so would stay around 250 degrees, but as it boils away, the engine will not have enough cooling and will ultimately freeze up. Since the antifreeze as it leaves the cylinder area will be hotter than after it goes through the radiator, as a practical matter, you need to keep the temperature (as measured by the gage) lower than the 250 degree max - and I think the designers like to keep it less than 220 degrees.[/quote']So the upgrade frees up more power HP and Torque wise, simplifys the cooling process and the mechanicals and is more reliabile and prevents the old car problem of overheating in traffic then?hmmm kinda builds on the notion of what I've always considered the daytona replica to be, a improved corvette, a corvette + basicallystill cant believe Mcburnie, Markadian and Chinetti (sorry if I spelled that wrong off of the top of my head) turned a beige on beige 81 vette, the ones I really dont care for as personally as I think GM ruined the front end of the C3 with the 80 redesign lookwise into something that good looking hmm still though Sonny I think it would be a good idea to have someone go over the wiring to the fans to make sure its the right ampage for the standard corvette wiring and isnt badly worn out and check the connections to the battery, and check that the battery is putting out enough power and see if the alternator/generator (always get that mixed up) is worn out, it is atleast a 23 year old car after all. next checking the cooling pipes, after all ruber does disintegrate over time, especally in california and can crack and bubble in really hot weather over time.and you could have someone check to see if someone maybe left on the old cooling fan mechancials on it too or put them on by accident.

[Sonny-Burnett]

The C-3 Corvettes (68 to 82) did not have electric fans. They use thermostatic clutch fans run off the crankshaft. The higher the temperature' date=' the more the fan clutch "grabs" and the faster the fan runs. The radiator shroud "encloses" the fan and forces the air to come through the radiator. The issue, of course, is that at idle the engine is running at low rpm and the fans runs slower even if the fan clutch is totally engaged. That's why the old big blocks would overheat if they sat in traffic for very long. The electric fans were a good solution because they came on at a constant speed whenever they were needed. And, unlike the clutch fans, they did not take power from the engine when not needed. When our replica Daytonas were built, I think most builders used the electric fans, which was a good idea.The pressure held by the radiator cap sets the maximum temperature the antifreeze could reach. I have read that each psi increases the antifreeze boiling point by about 3 degrees F. That would mean that a 15 psi cap would hold antifreeze up to about 250 degrees. If the temperature increase above the 250 degrees, it would boil and be released by the cap, so would stay around 250 degrees, but as it boils away, the engine will not have enough cooling and will ultimately freeze up. Since the antifreeze as it leaves the cylinder area will be hotter than after it goes through the radiator, as a practical matter, you need to keep the temperature (as measured by the gage) lower than the 250 degree max - and I think the designers like to keep it less than 220 degrees.[/quote']Very thorough explanation CD though I'm not really clear on how the cap can control the boiling point. I thought it was more coolant to water ratio that may do that (more water equals more cooling power, according to my mechanic). I could actually hear and see the coolant bubbling in the coolant overflow reservoir when I was in the 230F range. That temp was reached before my electric fan was corrected to pull air through the radiator and was getting to 230F and a little higher a couple summers ago when stopped at a light and no getting any airflow. I also was running the AC though it is not working properly still.The experienced Vette mechanics that I used to go to didn't seem too concerned about the 230 temp but it concerned me enough to have someone else look at it and that is how the fan mis-direction was noted. Now that the fan was corrected, a 190F thermostat was added to control the electric fan cycle, and I am not running the AC, guage temps stay between 180 and 200, but more like 190 on hot days. Going to see how it does over the weekend as we approach 100F here tomorrow and over few days .Still likely need a new radiator and another AC fix. On an unrelated note, CameraDaytona, when you have time, would you please review the earlier posts related to my interior color? I am looking for your comments about the interior tan color and whether mine is close or off from your interior color? I am looking to have the Connelly Saddle leather repaired and redyed in the near future. Thnx in advance .

[Sonny-Burnett]

So the upgrade frees up more power HP and Torque wise' date=' simplifys the cooling process and the mechanicals and is more reliabile and prevents the old car problem of overheating in traffic then?[/quote']Upgrade?

hmm still though Sonny I think it would be a good idea to have someone go over the wiring to the fans to make sure its the right ampage for the standard corvette wiring and isnt badly worn out and check the connections to the battery, and check that the battery is putting out enough power and see if the alternator/generator (always get that mixed up) is worn out, it is atleast a 23 year old car after all. next checking the cooling pipes, after all ruber does disintegrate over time, especally in california and can crack and bubble in really hot weather over time.and you could have someone check to see if someone maybe left on the old cooling fan mechancials on it too or put them on by accident.

I did have the Vette shop go over it 2 summers ago when I first acquired it. They checked the hoses, flushed the radiator and the overflow tank, and replaced the AC compressor among other things. I think the battery needs replacing as it is a Wal-Mart brand small battery that doesn't hold a charge over the winter. As to the other electricals I think the alternator may be an issue as I see the console lights vary in brightness when I accelerate vs decelerate so may be an issue. But I am not an expert on this so should get some testing when I do my next round of mechanicals, likely starting late Fall. I plan to have much of the emissions hoses removed later on this year as they are no longer required so that will take out some old rubber lines.

[Kavinsky]

Upgrade?I did have the Vette shop go over it 2 summers ago when I first acquired it. They checked the hoses' date=' flushed the radiator and the overflow tank' date=' and replaced the AC compressor among other things. I think the battery needs replacing as it is a Wal-Mart brand small battery that doesn't hold a charge over the winter. As to the other electricals I think the alternator may be an issue as I see the console lights vary in brightness when I accelerate vs decelerate so may be an issue. But I am not an expert on this so should get some testing when I do my next round of mechanicals, likely starting late Fall. I plan to have much of the emissions hoses removed later on this year as they are no longer required so that will take out some old rubber lines.[/quote'']yeah he just said that the C3 throught its entire production run never had electric fans, they were fans that ran off of the mechanicals, the clutch plate from the sound of it when the car was moving hence why they overheated when they werent moving in traffic as it wasnt spinning them fast enough to properly cool them in dead stop or stop and go traffic including with the big blocks.which had a hole cut on the bottom of the nose to pull more air into cool them in 73 I believe along with getting some extra shock absorbants added for radial tires in the body mounts.and Mcburnie added them to the car to help with the cooling and I have heard of this done with a miura and a few other earlier cars on Lenos Garage website but I hadnt come across that with the C3 vette.and yeah if the lights are dimming when your accelerating I think its time to have the electricals professionally gone over and the battery replaced with something of a higher quality as that does not sound healthy at all, actually I just watched something the other night while clicking through called south brox autoparts and they had some hip hop suv that was having power problems with its stupid audio system like that and they did replace the alternator with something more powerful so it could be that thats just conked out.

[CameraDaytona]

Very thorough explanation CD though I'm not really clear on how the cap can control the boiling point. I thought it was more coolant to water ratio that may do that (more water equals more cooling power' date=' according to my mechanic). I could actually hear and see the coolant bubbling in the coolant overflow reservoir when I was in the 230F range.[/quote']Fluids boil at a higher temperature when at higher pressure. Every pound per square inch (psi) of pressure increases the boiling point of antifreeze about 3 degrees F. The radiator cap maintains a pressure of about 15 psi (this varies with the car - my 59 Corvette is only 7 psi) in the cooling system. When the temp increases above about 212 degrees in the cooling system, the pressure in the system increases above atmospheric pressure. At about 250 degrees the pressure exceeds the 15 psi and the cap releases the pressure above 15 psi. The released coolant goes to the overflow tank (which may be pressurized) or may be at atmospheric pressure and boils until the temp gets down to 212 degrees. That's why you may see steam coming out of the overflow hose on cars that are overheating. Incidentally, radiator caps can go bad and release pressure at a lower psi. This means that the coolant "boils" and is released at a lower temp. Sometimes a new cap can fix an overheating problem.

[CameraDaytona]

On an unrelated note' date=' CameraDaytona, when you have time, would you please review the earlier posts related to my interior color? I am looking for your comments about the interior tan color and whether mine is close or off from your interior color? I am looking to have the Connelly Saddle leather repaired and redyed in the near future. Thnx in advance .[/quote']Sonny - It's hard to tell colors in pictures. Your color looks pretty close in the 4 pictures of your car on page 131. I tried to print out the picture of your connolly leather sample. It looks like it printed out a little lighter than on the web site, so again, it's hard to tell. I think the pictures of the interior of my car that are in the gallery and in the forum look pretty close to the real color - if that helps. There are also a lot of pictures of the two Daytonas from the series showing the interior. I would think that your color is close enough that I would just try to match your current color with any repairs or redying. That way, you do not have to redye the entire interior which would be a big job.

[Kavinsky]

Sonny - It's hard to tell colors in pictures. Your color looks pretty close in the 4 pictures of your car on page 131. I tried to print out the picture of your connolly leather sample. It looks like it printed out a little lighter than on the web site' date=' so again, it's hard to tell. I think the pictures of the interior of my car that are in the gallery and in the forum look pretty close to the real color - if that helps. There are also a lot of pictures of the two Daytonas from the series showing the interior. I would think that your color is close enough that I would just try to match your current color with any repairs or redying. That way, you do not have to redye the entire interior which would be a big job.[/quote']also remember what Jurrasic had said (I think) that Tom Mcburnie wanted Mark Chinetti to do the car in saddle leather but he wouldnt do it because of how expensive it was so chances are he probably found a substitute leather from the corvette catalog that matched itplus well looking at the TR I think the leather they used was really tan but it matched up with that 79 light beige one I used a few posts ago where it looks white at night in low light and tan in the daytime when the lights shining on it:where as on the vice car it looks like a deeper darker tan than that on the TR plus with the TR they might have intended to order it in the same interior color scheme as the Daytona but well the leather might have been too light hence why they went with a rust colored carpet instead of the straight black one the daytona had.

[jurassic narc]

also remember what Jurrasic had said (I think) that Tom Mcburnie wanted Mark Chinetti to do the car in saddle leather but he wouldnt do it because of how expensive it was so chances are he probably found a substitute leather from the corvette catalog that matched itplus well looking at the TR I think the leather they used was really tan but it matched up with that 79 light beige one I used a few posts ago where it looks white at night in low light and tan in the daytime when the lights shining on it:where as on the vice car it looks like a deeper darker tan than that on the TR plus with the TR they might have intended to order it in the same interior color scheme as the Daytona but well the leather might have been too light hence why they went with a rust colored carpet instead of the straight black one the daytona had.

No, Cichetti did the cars in Connolly leather, far more expensive than saddle leather. The Mardikians were intended to be luxury cars at the time.

[Sonny-Burnett]

No' date=' Cichetti did the cars in Connolly leather, far more expensive than saddle leather. The Mardikians were intended to be luxury cars at the time.[/quote']Think there is some confusion of terms... my swatch was Connolly but the color was saddle.

[Kavinsky]

I thought it was the other way around jurrasic, that connoly was deemed too expensive by Chinetti so he used something else and that it was probably in the color of saddle leather. I dont know but either way I kinda think Light beige is more along the lines of the color leather used in the TR than the daytona as that light of a leather mixed in with the black would make the contrast seem to strong between black and the tan color used in the daytona

[Sonny-Burnett]

Sonny - It's hard to tell colors in pictures. Your color looks pretty close in the 4 pictures of your car on page 131. I tried to print out the picture of your connolly leather sample. It looks like it printed out a little lighter than on the web site' date=' so again, it's hard to tell. I think the pictures of the interior of my car that are in the gallery and in the forum look pretty close to the real color - if that helps. There are also a lot of pictures of the two Daytonas from the series showing the interior. I would think that your color is close enough that I would just try to match your current color with any repairs or redying. That way, you do not have to redye the entire interior which would be a big job.[/quote']Thanks for your comments, CameraDaytona, just seeing this post. Yes, the Connolly Saddle swatch is comparatively darker than my interior now. When I photo the swatch it seems lighter than the actual swatch color so I had a hard time showing its true color on here. I also know the swatch has never experienced any sun exposure so would expect it to be darker than the interior leather as it is now and in fact, my interior is now several shades lighter than the swatch sample. I did think my interior color as it is now is fairly close to your color and seems as though you agree.Think I may take your suggestion and redye to its existing color after repairs are made. The interior guy I met suggested doing the whole interior to provide good color match. It is a big job, lasting the whole day .

[Sonny-Burnett]

Fluids boil at a higher temperature when at higher pressure. Every pound per square inch (psi) of pressure increases the boiling point of antifreeze about 3 degrees F. The radiator cap maintains a pressure of about 15 psi (this varies with the car - my 59 Corvette is only 7 psi) in the cooling system. When the temp increases above about 212 degrees in the cooling system' date=' the pressure in the system increases above atmospheric pressure. At about 250 degrees the pressure exceeds the 15 psi and the cap releases the pressure above 15 psi. The released coolant goes to the overflow tank (which may be pressurized) or may be at atmospheric pressure and boils until the temp gets down to 212 degrees. That's why you may see steam coming out of the overflow hose on cars that are overheating. Incidentally, radiator caps can go bad and release pressure at a lower psi. This means that the coolant "boils" and is released at a lower temp. Sometimes a new cap can fix an overheating problem.[/quote']Thanks for the further explanation on this. When my car was still overheating and reading around 230F on the gauge at shutdown I could hear and then see the coolant boiling in the non-pressurized overflow tank. So now wondering if my gauge could be reading low based on your explanation. Need to check the PSI rating on my cap.

[Youngman]

electric fansI looked guess because mine is a 1987 block it has two electric fans seems to run about 210-215 with AC on which my mechanic says is normal for a 1987

yeah he just said that the C3 throught its entire production run never had electric fans' date=' they were fans that ran off of the mechanicals' date=' the clutch plate from the sound of it when the car was moving hence why they overheated when they werent moving in traffic as it wasnt spinning them fast enough to properly cool them in dead stop or stop and go traffic including with the big blocks.which had a hole cut on the bottom of the nose to pull more air into cool them in 73 I believe along with getting some extra shock absorbants added for radial tires in the body mounts.and Mcburnie added them to the car to help with the cooling and I have heard of this done with a miura and a few other earlier cars on Lenos Garage website but I hadnt come across that with the C3 vette.and yeah if the lights are dimming when your accelerating I think its time to have the electricals professionally gone over and the battery replaced with something of a higher quality as that does not sound healthy at all, actually I just watched something the other night while clicking through called south brox autoparts and they had some hip hop suv that was having power problems with its stupid audio system like that and they did replace the alternator with something more powerful so it could be that thats just conked out.[/quote'']