The Ferrari Daytonas of Miami Vice


jurassic narc

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So Jurrasic how did the dash turn out?maybe just mark the spinners backs with a permanent marker like for the left front LF

The guy didn't do it as I asked, so he has gone back to redo. And FYI my Dayton Wheels have the spinners marked for the hub they come off. Just like you suggested, LF LR RF RR.
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I'm just curious did you ask them to do any additional mods to it because of the photos I sent you?and what did you think of the guide?I'm glad to hear that the spinners are marked, atleast with the daytons but I dont know if Sonny's are, actually I oughta add that to the owners guide I made as well.

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I'm just curious did you ask them to do any additional mods to it because of the photos I sent you?and what did you think of the guide?I'm glad to hear that the spinners are marked' date=' atleast with the daytons but I dont know if Sonny's are, actually I oughta add that to the owners guide I made as well.[/quote'] I had already sent it to the upholstery guy. But I have a large number of photos of the Camera Car I took a couple of years ago.I had hoped to sit down with the information you sent sooner, but business has been especially good lately. I am trying to get some free time this weekend.JN
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  • 3 weeks later...

So jurrasic any updates with your dash and what you thought of the guide and sonny any updates?

No joy on the dash yet, the upholsterer was not happy that I sent it back (He actually suggested that I look at the pictures of the dash closer!! I told him I had been studying the car for 5 years.).I have looked the guide over, and noticed that it was very detailed and well thought out. I have not had a chance to look it all over, as the summer months are very busy in my line of work. I plan to take some time with it as soon as I can.ThanksJN
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Yeah the taking of the photos was the simple part it was the integrated guide that took up most of the time and I wanted to be thorough. and the wheeler dealers epsiodes certain helped me picked up on things I didnt even think of like the automatic transmition fluid and the filter for it.but it sounds like the upholstery guy seems to have abit of an ego or he's trying to make it for himself and not you. I think in the resto blog of the ford he mentiones a good upholstery company he uses for his cars, maybe you should give them a ring instead if he screws it up again, after all its just the dash so it shouldnt cost too much.http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/segment/restoration-blog/restoration-blog-1966-ford-galaxie-update-5/

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  • 2 weeks later...

QUOTE=Kavinsky;231785]Jurrasic do you know what the story is with this shot of the daytona and the testarossa? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Two_Miami_Vice_Ferraris.jpg The photo was made in Miami during the early part of Season 3. The white Testarossa had been introduced and the Daytona was out. Carl Roberts set up the photo shoot with the stunt Testarossa and the Camera Car. Don didn't show so they used a cardboard cutout in front of the cars (this story is per Carl Roberts). Carl was trying to market his version of the Daytona and a Testarossa kit he was trying to get on the market.Popular Mechanics did an article on the cars, and then later did a build of a Roberts Daytona for an article. The picture is from the PM atricle on the show cars.[ATTACH=CONFIG]3595[/ATTACH][

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Ah I see, so wait a minute does that mean that one of the first things Carl did when he got the cars in return for the stunt car was take the smoked plexyglass off?

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and I take it this shot is also from that shoot right?Eingefügtes Bildactually looking at that thing I swear the spinners look like they've also already been switched for the black and gold ones

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and I take it this shot is also from that shoot right?Eingefügtes Bildactually looking at that thing I swear the spinners look like they've also already been switched for the black and gold ones

If I recall correctly, the cars were staged for the photo in September of the year the Testarossa was introduced. The Daytona had been to Tennessee for a while and Carl had already swapped parts around while he was working on his Daytona and Testarossa. He was driving the Daytona back and forth, and working to build a brand name (Ferrari wouldn't stop his production for another year). I don't know why he switched the parts, although driving the car at night with the tinted headlight cover is very difficult outside an urban area with streetlights.
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The plexyglass I can understand as I dont think they had any sort of High Intensity lights available like the ones your using on your car back thenbut with the spinners perhaps there was damage to them, they had been on the car since it was made in california and all throught the cars run on the show and to say the least Don wasnt easy on the daytona.although he could have just put on different capsJurrasic one other thing was there any work done to the grill of the daytona during the show or after its retirement? I swear it looks like Carl moved it further foward in the nose or possibily repainted it for S2Eingefügtes Bild

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Jurrasic one other thing was there any work done to the grill of the daytona during the show or after its retirement? I swear it looks like Carl moved it further foward in the nose or possibily repainted it for S2Eingefügtes Bild

Not, sure. Most likely it was just painted and cleaned up. Carl made his own grill for his cars that was more Ferrari-like. Those were made of cast aluminum bars welded together. It is heavy (to be made of aluminum), and takes paint well. The ones in the McBurnies looks much thinner and less stiff. Not sure what they are made of, but they only came on the McBurnies. I am really surprised that Carl didn't change those out with his version at some point.It is odd that McBurnie used the Ferrari lights and lots of "Ferrari touches" and yet he built that odd looking grill that has to be fitted prior to the installation of the bumpers, and didn't use the standard Ferrari Daytona grill which slides in and out independantly.JN
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Well it might be a good way to tell the first 4 cars appart from the latter ones, I found this photo of what I think is a latter mcburnie with a cut down grilEingefügtes Bildso it may be a trademark of the markadian cars, hence why it wasnt changed although it could have been on carls to do list when the got the word the daytona was out.Also did Carl add side skirts to the daytona at some point post S1 perhaps to cover up the camera mounts?Eingefügtes Bildthe reason why I'm saying that is looking at photos of your car, Sonnys and all other replicas the sides of the daytona looked like this in S1 and then in S2 it looks like someone added those pieces to the undercarrage to cover up the belly (one of the things that looked off on in S2 and ruined the lines of the car in my opinion) which it doesnt have anymore.I was watching El Viejo yesterday thats why I noticed it.

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Well it might be a good way to tell the first 4 cars appart from the latter ones' date=' I found this photo of what I think is a latter mcburnie with a cut down gril.[/quote'] No, the McBurnie cars all have the odd grill, even to the end. The red car above looks more like a Rowley car.You may be right about that side bracing. If you look at how the camera was hung from the side for the closeups, that may be to keep the bottom support off the paint.

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it would fit and would explain why it was added for S2 Am I right in thinking that, that photo is also from El Viejo? I swear it looks like the same road they used during the van shootout scene

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it would fit and would explain why it was added for S2 Am I right in thinking that' date=' that photo is also from El Viejo? I swear it looks like the same road they used during the van shootout scene[/quote'] Not sure, but you could be right. That looks like Season 3 hair. Got my dash in tonight, and will start the process of installing it. When I finish I will include before and after shots to explain to everyone how it was accomplished.Hope to get started in the next few days, but not sure. My youngest graduates high school on Friday!! May take a little while longer.JN
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Hmm you oughta pull the daytona out for that!I'm just curious jurrasic I've been thinking about making another thread about what I'm planning to do with mine once I get one, would you be interested in seeing it?

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Got an issue to bring up to the group here. My Daytona has been reading up to 240F temp when running the AC since last summer and then had AC issues in the fall where it shut down. I knew my secondary cooling fan was not operational as well and needed a coolant system clean and flush. So did the clean and flush last year. Just last week, I added a thermostat to the secondary fan set to come on at 195F and go off at 175F thinking this would solve the problem. The mechanics advised that my AC compressor had previously been shutting down because the condensor was not cooling the AC system adequately due to lack of air flow, and connecting the secondary fan should help that. So on making the 20 mile drive home the AC was back working again and the secondary fan was operating, but my engine temp still rose to almost 240F. A side note is that the engine temp sensor is mounted to the block and not the radiator, so the actual coolant temp is about 10-15 degrees cooler than the block temp reads. Apparently this is a Vette nuance. So after a length conversation with the shop about this, they informed me that the main reason for the Daytona running hotter is because of the front cowl that extends below the car and past the radiator. This cowl has no openings or air dams to allow air to flow up into the radiator, which a Vette of that era would have and they showed me these openings and dam on a 1980 they had. They suggested cutting a long 2 inch wide slit in the lower cowl to allow a natural air dam. Not fond of this idea to cut into the body at all. Short term I had them order an insulation kit to be installed around the radiator to direct more air through it and the condensor (the space around it allowed cooling air to bypass both). Maybe need to replace the primary thermostat as well though they claim it is working. So my question is have any of you encountered this temperature issue and what solutions have you found?Thanks

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Where precisely would this hole go on the nose?and I do remember Jurrasic mentioning an overheating problem which he solved by doing what your planning to do.

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Where precisely would this hole go on the nose?and I do remember Jurrasic mentioning an overheating problem which he solved by doing what your planning to do.

The shop proposed cutting a two inch wide slit running about 2/3 the width of the cowl under the nose, just in front of the radiator to allow for a natural air dam using the curvature of the cowl. I am reluctant to do this as you would see the notch if you were low in front but also this notch might cause some problems with the fiberglass integrity if it does have a lot of airflow around it. I think Jurassic had some fan issues which solved his problem but he downplayed the benefits of insulating around the radiator. I am going to do this too but also doubt this will solve the problem. The big difference I see with the Vette nose is its very large and noticeable front end air dam just under the nose. Don't want that kind of look on mine.Am wondering if the primary thermostat could be bad or set too high.
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The shop proposed cutting a two inch wide slit running about 2/3 the width of the cowl under the nose' date=' just in front of the radiator to allow for a natural air dam using the curvature of the cowl. I am reluctant to do this as you would see the notch if you were low in front but also this notch might cause some problems with the fiberglass integrity if it does have a lot of airflow around it. I think Jurassic had some fan issues which solved his problem but he downplayed the benefits of insulating around the radiator. I am going to do this too but also doubt this will solve the problem. The big difference I see with the Vette nose is its very large and noticeable front end air dam just under the nose. Don't want that kind of look on mine.Am wondering if the primary thermostat could be bad or set too high.[/quote'] Before you let them do surgery on the car, have the thermostat changed (that is a cheap fix), the air should come up through the front grill and be orced over the radiaotor. If the fans are working properly, then take a look at the radiator itself, and make sure it is not stopped up. I would do a lot of looking at the cooling system before I let them take a saw to the fiberglass.I have a new, aluminum radiator, new thermostat, and new hoses. My car runs at a steady 180-200 with or without air. It idles in the heat with no noticable difference. Much improved over the car when I bought it.JN
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Before you let them do surgery on the car' date=' have the thermostat changed (that is a cheap fix), the air should come up through the front grill and be orced over the radiaotor. If the fans are working properly, then take a look at the radiator itself, and make sure it is not stopped up. I would do a lot of looking at the cooling system before I let them take a saw to the fiberglass.I have a new, aluminum radiator, new thermostat, and new hoses. My car runs at a steady 180-200 with or without air. It idles in the heat with no noticable difference. Much improved over the car when I bought it.JN[/quote'] Yep agree it would not be optimal to mess with the body. My radiator is probably original though it holds pressure. May not be efficient and thermostat may need to be replaced.Do you know if your temp sensor is on your block or on your radiator? My coolant temp is actually 10-15 degrees cooler than the block or the guage reads. Still if you're running at 180-200 then you are cooler than me. I noticed my temp typically runs 180 to 200 when no AC is on. When the AC is on it loads the engine and the temps rise. ThnxS-B
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I also agree taking a saw to 25 year old fiberglass should be the last resort (not to mention the dirt build up from that additional hole) and chances are something unknown to you and the mechanic as of now is probably what's causing the problem within the system.plus keep in mind the car was abused as well, chances are something that was fragile and key to keeping the car running cool was damaged over time or neglected, Hmm if the AC is putting that much pressure on it maybe it has something to do with that system? also check the fuses to make sure nothings burned out over time, could be that a fan fuse blew out and is causing the thing to intermittently kick in and out causing the problem.Also Jurrasic what brand radiator is in yours?and Sonny did your car have any anti freeze in it? I'm wondering if your having the same problem that was mentioned here in a way with the triumph stag at 3:16http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnCRXECVtC4

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My radiator and overflow were basically sludge-filled from leaving the coolant unchanged more than 3 years or so. This had to be cleaned out and chemically flushed last year. BTW a side note is that the Vette shop told me the normal operating temperature range for this car is anywhere from 160F to 240F with 240 being the max that GM wanted the car to operate at. Yeah don't think I will consider too long cutting into that beautiful fiberglass body, even underneath the car. Not going to do that at this point. Think there must be something more fundamentally wrong especially if Jurassic and CameraDaytona don't have any air dam openings under their noses.....please confirm this guys if you would.So think maybe you guys are onto something that there is something then more fundamentally wrong....maybe the radiator needs to be either re-cored or replaced. Not sure about the fuses and, reminds me, I have not even found the fuses for this car yet. ;)As to the AC load that seems to drive up the temp rather quickly when I run it and wouldn't expect that unless the primary thermostat is defective or the radiator is partially blocked. Need to check the AC system as well again. Replaced the Compressor last fall so that is new. Think I will explore these things. JN, didn't you say that your temp didn't go up markedly when you engaged the AC? And JN and CameraDaytona, do you know if your temperature gauge sensor is mounted to your block or your radiator? If so your coolant temp may actually be lower as mine tends to be. Thanks again:thumbsup:
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