The Ferrari Daytonas of Miami Vice

[Sonny-Burnett]

Not' date=' sure. Most likely it was just painted and cleaned up. Carl made his own grill for his cars that was more Ferrari-like. Those were made of cast aluminum bars welded together. It is heavy (to be made of aluminum), and takes paint well. The ones in the McBurnies looks much thinner and less stiff. Not sure what they are made of, but they only came on the McBurnies. I am really surprised that Carl didn't change those out with his version at some point.It is odd that McBurnie used the Ferrari lights and lots of "Ferrari touches" and yet he built that odd looking grill that has to be fitted prior to the installation of the bumpers, and didn't use the standard Ferrari Daytona grill which slides in and out independantly.JN[/quote'] I have the thinner McBurnie grill and it appears to be made of thin aluminum alloys. Almost like a heavy guage sheet metal. Not very rigid and can bend if not careful.

[CameraDaytona]

Jurassic and CameraDaytona don't have any air dam openings under their noses.....please confirm this guys if you would.Think I will explore these things. JN" data-date="[/B">

didn't you say that your temp didn't go up markedly when you engaged the AC? And JN and CameraDaytona, do you know if your temperature gauge sensor is mounted to your block or your radiator? If so your coolant temp may actually be lower as mine tends to be. Thanks again:thumbsup:

My temp sensor is on the driver side of the block between the first and second cylinders. The early Corvette temp sensors I am familiar with are generally on the passenger-side front of the block. My block is probably a mid 80s block which may be different.I have no cut-out on the front of the car. The car has both the regular fan and an electric fan. It has heated up on hot days when idling. I have not done a rigorous check to be sure the electric fan is working properly. And the radiator may need to be cleaned out. I assume that it did not overheat in the Florida weather while being used in the show, so the problem is probably a maintenance issue as you have described for your car. The cars should be capable of adequate cooling without cutting the bodywork as they were used in a lot of hot weather in Miami - and of course, JN has fixed his without cutting bodywork. The aluminum radiators really do a good job in the Corvette, and since they are used in a lot of older Corvettes now, they should be affordable.Good luck finding the problem. Let us know what you find.

[jurassic narc]

Jurassic and CameraDaytona don't have any air dam openings under their noses.....please confirm this guys if you would.So think maybe you guys are onto something that there is something then more fundamentally wrong....maybe the radiator needs to be either re-cored or replaced. Not sure about the fuses and, reminds me, I have not even found the fuses for this car yet. ;)As to the AC load that seems to drive up the temp rather quickly when I run it and wouldn't expect that unless the primary thermostat is defective or the radiator is partially blocked. Need to check the AC system as well again. Replaced the Compressor last fall so that is new. Think I will explore these things. JN, didn't you say that your temp didn't go up markedly when you engaged the AC? And JN and CameraDaytona, do you know if your temperature gauge sensor is mounted to your block or your radiator? If so your coolant temp may actually be lower as mine tends to be. Thanks again:thumbsup:

The sensor for the temp gauge is on the drivers side of the block, and the only thing I noticed when the AC is turned on is the idle rpm drops from the load. It seldom runs at a temp higher than 200 with the ambiant temp high and the engine at idle sitting still. Replacing the radiator core with a remade one was a good investment.

[Sonny-Burnett]

The sensor for the temp gauge is on the drivers side of the block' date=' and the only thing I noticed when the AC is turned on is the idle rpm drops from the load. It seldom runs at a temp higher than 200 with the ambiant temp high and the engine at idle sitting still. Replacing the radiator core with a remade one was a good investment.[/quote'] Thanks JN, but to clarify, you did not install a new radiator but just re-cored your old one? I know new radiators are pretty price competitive with pricing on recoring. And what is the typical temp on a warm day when you are driving around town with the AC on pls? I get to 240 and now I know we are measuring apples to apples with the sensor on the block in both our cars. ThnxS-B

[Sonny-Burnett]

My temp sensor is on the driver side of the block between the first and second cylinders. The early Corvette temp sensors I am familiar with are generally on the passenger-side front of the block. My block is probably a mid 80s block which may be different.I have no cut-out on the front of the car. The car has both the regular fan and an electric fan. It has heated up on hot days when idling. I have not done a rigorous check to be sure the electric fan is working properly. And the radiator may need to be cleaned out. I assume that it did not overheat in the Florida weather while being used in the show' date=' so the problem is probably a maintenance issue as you have described for your car. The cars should be capable of adequate cooling without cutting the bodywork as they were used in a lot of hot weather in Miami - and of course, JN has fixed his without cutting bodywork. The aluminum radiators really do a good job in the Corvette, and since they are used in a lot of older Corvettes now, they should be affordable.Good luck finding the problem. Let us know what you find.[/quote'] Thanks CD for your comments. You seem to really know Vettes. My block is an 81 as is the chassis. I have the same fan configuration as you do as well. Good point about the Miami weather...not going to let them cut into my car in any case. Never liked the thought much. So yours is heating up too then? JN can you tell us what model/make radiator you went with? Am assuming you probably went with a new radiator assembly as I know recoring is not as common as it used to be with the reduction in pricing of new radiators, also as CD mentioned. Thnx guysS-B

[jurassic narc]

Thanks CD for your comments. You seem to really know Vettes. My block is an 81 as is the chassis. I have the same fan configuration as you do as well. Good point about the Miami weather...not going to let them cut into my car in any case. Never liked the thought much. So yours is heating up too then? JN can you tell us what model/make radiator you went with? Am assuming you probably went with a new radiator assembly as I know recoring is not as common as it used to be with the reduction in pricing of new radiators' date=' also as CD mentioned. Thnx guysS-B[/quote']Don't know what brand it was, but I essentially had the entire cooling system replaced. Hoses, radiator, thermostat, and heater core. The dual fans run at the same time. In Georgia the temp was 91 last weekend, and the car never ran above 190. I don't run the AC often because it gets suck right out, but this was the first hot day this summer. I ran the AC for a little while and noticed the rise from 180 to 190 and the pull on the engine. The car didn't run hot, and since I have gotten my thermal issues resolved I can't remember seeing it over 210. Sounds like to me that you would be well served to replace the radiator with an all aluminum job and then change the hoses and the thermostat. The biggest money will be for the radiator, but you should still be able to get it all done for less than a $100 over whatever the radiator costs.Hope that helps. JN

[Sonny-Burnett]

Don't know what brand it was' date=' but I essentially had the entire cooling system replaced. Hoses, radiator, thermostat, and heater core. The dual fans run at the same time. In Georgia the temp was 91 last weekend, and the car never ran above 190. I don't run the AC often because it gets suck right out, but this was the first hot day this summer. I ran the AC for a little while and noticed the rise from 180 to 190 and the pull on the engine. The car didn't run hot, and since I have gotten my thermal issues resolved I can't remember seeing it over 210. Sounds like to me that you would be well served to replace the radiator with an all aluminum job and then change the hoses and the thermostat. The biggest money will be for the radiator, but you should still be able to get it all done for less than a $100 over whatever the radiator costs.Hope that helps. JN[/quote'] Thanks JN for your inputs. And so you did install a new radiator and not re-core your old one then?So your second fan is always on then? Mine (electric) is now wired to a thermostat set to come on at 195 and off at 175. It doesn't seem to have any impact to the temp though. I think you're probably right about this and I am going to look at replacing these same items, maybe starting with the thermostat to see if that has any impact. But maybe my radiator is just old and tired and not efficient. Do you recall what all this cost you? Am also going to have them check the AC components to see if they are optimal for this cooling system. Installed a new compressor last fall.Thnx again,S-B

[Sonny-Burnett]

I have the thinner McBurnie grill and it appears to be made of thin aluminum alloys. Almost like a heavy guage sheet metal. Not very rigid and can bend if not careful.

By the way I need to find a way to clean and polish the McBurnie grill as mine is looking kind of weathered. Any suggestions on how to clean would be appreciated.

[jurassic narc]

Thanks JN for your inputs. And so you did install a new radiator and not re-core your old one then?So your second fan is always on then? Mine (electric) is now wired to a thermostat set to come on at 195 and off at 175. It doesn't seem to have any impact to the temp though. I think you're probably right about this and I am going to look at replacing these same items' date=' maybe starting with the thermostat to see if that has any impact. But maybe my radiator is just old and tired and not efficient. Do you recall what all this cost you? Am also going to have them check the AC components to see if they are optimal for this cooling system. Installed a new compressor last fall.Thnx again,S-B[/quote'] New radiator, standard not aluminum (might havre helped, but I was out of town at the time and the shop used a standard model). Cost me about $400-500 total. The vents in the radiator get full of sludge and even when you have it cleaned out it just doesn't do the job. That would be my first guess.Both fans run all the time. I am going to have them put on a thermostat to cut down on the volts needed to crank the car, but having both fans on seems to help.JN

[Sonny-Burnett]

New radiator' date=' standard not aluminum (might havre helped, but I was out of town at the time and the shop used a standard model). Cost me about $400-500 total. The vents in the radiator get full of sludge and even when you have it cleaned out it just doesn't do the job. That would be my first guess.Both fans run all the time. I am going to have them put on a thermostat to cut down on the volts needed to crank the car, but having both fans on seems to help.JN[/quote'] Ah ok, so you went with a new standard radiator but you also upgraded the hoses and thermostat, all for about $500 including labor? I hear you about sludge. Mine could also be partially blocked from years of sludge build up from non-use. My initial pass at the shop is that they have 2 aluminum models at $500 and $700 and not including labor.Do you recall when you replaced your thermostat what temp settings were on it for on and off?

[jurassic narc]

Ah ok' date=' so you went with a new standard radiator but you also upgraded the hoses and thermostat, all for about $500 including labor? I hear you about sludge. Mine could also be partially blocked from years of sludge build up from non-use. My initial pass at the shop is that they have 2 aluminum models at $500 and $700 and not including labor.Do you recall when you replaced your thermostat what temp settings were on it for on and off?[/quote'] not sure if it was 180 or 190. Whatever was standard for the 1980s 350 small block.

[Sonny-Burnett]

not sure if it was 180 or 190. Whatever was standard for the 1980s 350 small block.

Ok, thanks. Bringing the car back in Monday to replace the thermostat and add insulation. If that doesn't solve it, and think it won't, am going to look at new radiator options.

[Kavinsky]

Yeah I've got the same feeling too, if the thing was that plugged up chances are it needs to be replaced.

[Sonny-Burnett]

Yeah I've got the same feeling too' date=' if the thing was that plugged up chances are it needs to be replaced.[/quote'] Looking at $800 to $1000 for an aluminum radiator installed. Think is a little crazy for a radiator but not sure a standard 4 grid brass will cut it. Need to evaluate that.

[Kavinsky]

That does sound abit steep, actually how much of estimate is labor though? Thats usually where it gets you I remember having a bill of about 300 bucks for a replacement brake line for the old wagon and the actual part was about 10 or 20 bucks, they had to make the thing inshop for the car since it was made in 96'.

[Sonny-Burnett]

That does sound abit steep' date=' actually how much of estimate is labor though? Thats usually where it gets you I remember having a bill of about 300 bucks for a replacement brake line for the old wagon and the actual part was about 10 or 20 bucks, they had to make the thing inshop for the car since it was made in 96'.[/quote'] They're telling me 3 hours of labor at $98 per hour so $300 is labor. I think is pricey also ...it's a vette specialty shop. May get other quotes on this.

[Kavinsky]

Honestly I was thinking the same thing but you might have the same problem you did in the first place of finding someone who's willing to work on it.actually thats stupid its still a corvette, its just that the body is a custom piece, basically do what you would do with any normal corvette and just make sure the place is reputable and has a good reputation amongst the corvette guys, that's the key.hell maybe look for someone who does primarily custom jobs like hotrods, corvette engines and parts are usually the goto pieces those kinda people so you may have some luck there.

[Kavinsky]

Jurrasic do you know if the Momo on the camera car was a custom order in 84? (since it looks like its got a stock wheel when it was first made) I'm having a hell of a time finding anything that's 343mm/13.5 in diameter.and it seems like the only steering wheels made in that size are new old stock corvette and mustang only wheels made by someone else other than momo and boat/golf cart wheels strangely enough.

[jurassic narc]

Jurrasic do you know if the Momo on the camera car was a custom order in 84? (since it looks like its got a stock wheel when it was first made) I'm having a hell of a time finding anything that's 343mm/13.5 in diameter.and it seems like the only steering wheels made in that size are new old stock corvette and mustang only wheels made by someone else other than momo and boat/golf cart wheels strangely enough.

I doubt it, but there is no way to be sure. Someone at Universal added the Ferrari logo and would have most likely added the Momo. But, McBurnie lost all his records in the fire. If anyone has any idea how to track down anyone who had anything to do with the original car used on the show, that would be a solid gold find!!Carl was involved until Season 1 was almost over.

[Sonny-Burnett]

Honestly I was thinking the same thing but you might have the same problem you did in the first place of finding someone who's willing to work on it.actually thats stupid its still a corvette' date=' its just that the body is a custom piece, basically do what you would do with any normal corvette and just make sure the place is reputable and has a good reputation amongst the corvette guys, that's the key.hell maybe look for someone who does primarily custom jobs like hotrods, corvette engines and parts are usually the goto pieces those kinda people so you may have some luck there.[/quote'] Had the car into the shop today and replaced the thermostat. I had a 160 on it and replaced it with the same. They had the kit for the solid insulation but only for the radiator sides. They will need to make a piece to fit over the space between the radiator and the condensor (looks to be about 4 inches). We discussed my temp readings at length and I had them laser test the temps at the block and at the radiator top port, and both were reading 175 at idle. The guage was reading 182 so not a big difference. But my car ran at 220 the other evening and it was a cool 70 outside, so this is hotter running than JNs. And today on the drive home in hot weather with the AC on it reached 230, almost 240.We concluded that I need an aluminum radiator, as they typically average a 20 degree reduction and usually do more, so I asked them to search for a more reasonably priced unit. When it comes in then I will also install the surround rigid insulation to redirect the airflow through the condensor and radiator. JN and CD, my AC really only ever blows cool air, not cold air like more current cars. Does your AC blow cool only as well, or do you get it cold?Am thinking that with the insulation redirecting the airflow through my condensor that will help some. But the Vette guys tell me that the 81 Vettes never really got cold anyway.

[Sonny-Burnett]

Jurrasic do you know if the Momo on the camera car was a custom order in 84? (since it looks like its got a stock wheel when it was first made) I'm having a hell of a time finding anything that's 343mm/13.5 in diameter.and it seems like the only steering wheels made in that size are new old stock corvette and mustang only wheels made by someone else other than momo and boat/golf cart wheels strangely enough.

Yep, I can't find one like that in those dimensions yet either. Damn.

[Sonny-Burnett]

not sure if it was 180 or 190. Whatever was standard for the 1980s 350 small block.

Mine had a 160 in it..so replaced with same today.

[Kavinsky]

hmm why do I get the feeling that our best bet would be just to ask Don about it and what they did to the car in the first season. he WAS abit of a car guy from what I figure with that vintage MG he had before vice and then the porsche 959 that he bought in addtion to the Testarossa and the Cuda'the Cuda was his idea after all.the other thing that we could do is look up the credits at the end of the show and find out who was most likey the guy who tended to the cars before Carl came in.and keep in mind the intention in the pilot was probably to use Car 4 as the stunt car/camera car and the real one for when it would be obivious car 4 wasnt an actual daytona like it was used in the pilot so chances are the momo may have been something they aquired for the second episode since the original wheel at first glance looks pretty close to the actual daytonas wheel.

[Sonny-Burnett]

hmm why do I get the feeling that our best bet would be just to ask Don about it and what they did to the car in the first season. he WAS abit of a car guy from what I figure with that vintage MG he had before vice and then the porsche 959 that he bought in addtion to the Testarossa and the Cuda'the Cuda was his idea after all.the other thing that we could do is look up the credits at the end of the show and find out who was most likey the guy who tended to the cars before Carl came in.and keep in mind the intention in the pilot was probably to use Car 4 as the stunt car/camera car and the real one for when it would be obivious car 4 wasnt an actual daytona like it was used in the pilot so chances are the momo may have been something they aquired for the second episode since the original wheel at first glance looks pretty close to the actual daytonas wheel.

Not sure what you're referring to in this post.

[Kavinsky]

the changes made to the car from the pilot to the second episode when they switched out the smoked plexyglass for a clear piece, removed that headrest with the M mark on it and possibly put on that momoAfter all in the pilot he was in a real daytona spider for a brief 5 seconds while waiting for Leon and car 4 was just used for the interior shots till the end of the episode when he confronts his partner probably because of that story about the doctor not letting them use the actual daytona after it got somehow damaged in that brief scene.leading me to believe they were planning on doing exactly what they did with the testarossa and the detomaso pantera stuntcar with the daytona originally and it would explain why the tail pipes werent moved futher in until they were damaged in the hitlist along with the nose.